Ninfa Gardens
- rnv178
- Jun 8, 2022
- 4 min read
We have done it. One major purpose of coming to Italy is complete as we have been to the Ninfa Gardens. I have been trying hard not to call them “Ninja” as there is nothing horrid about them, but the fact is the gardens are truly beautiful. They are well worth a long drive.
The gardens were all of 20 minutes’ bumpy road from the Wine Resort where we were staying, and the day was baking hot. Yet the moment we drove into the hard-packed parking area, on a day when the gardens were not open to the public, everything changed. Parked under some spreading elder trees, the car was in the shade and instantly began to cool down. Within moments Umbertina – they call her Umby – had appeared, introduced herself in expert English, and away we went.
The rules of Nifna are simple. You can only visit with a guide, who must follow a predetermined route. The full gardens cover 105 hectares (260 acres) and have been declared a natural monument. The landscaped portion is the bit the guides show and is much smaller - 8 hectares (20 acres) at most - but those hectares are packed with history and horticulture. There are mediaeval ruins, plenty of tall trees, exotic plants from around the world, and an astonishing display of roses.
The gardens are fed by a natural underground water source and are truly green to see. Towering over them, and gazing down, is the village of Norma, high on a sun-baked hillside. Norma looks out of place, as much of it is modern and in contrast with the ruins of Ninfa, although is some distance away.
Ninfa gained its name from a temple located on an island in a small lake within the gardens. The temple was dedicated to nymphs, who were believed to live in the surrounding mountains, groves, and valleys. At its peak, in roughly the 12th century, Ninfa had more than 150 houses, several churches, mills, bridges, hospices, a castle and a town hall. The town was surrounded by a high, defensive wall. By the 17th century Ninfa was steadily depopulated, thanks to the effects of malaria and work on today’s gardens began in 1921. There was an English influence at that time, thanks to the efforts of a Gelasio Caetani, the son of a lady with a most wonderful name – Adela (Ada) Bootle-Wilbraham. The effect is as we saw today. The Ninfa Gardens are seriously impressive and are frequently described as the most romantic gardens in the world. I am not qualified to say.
There were plenty of bugs and butterflies, too, which we were pleased to see. Not that we knew what any of them were but in an era when insects are so widely threatened, it was good to see one location at least where these tiny beasties thrived. Two hours after we started, for a tour that was meant only to last 80 minutes, Umby waved us on our way. Her tour of the gardens had been one of those experiences that will unquestionably linger. It is difficult to forget Ninfa.
Apart from Ninfa, it was a lazy day, which was just as well as the temperature was baking. Then came dinner and that, too, was good. Our selection was a restaurant we should have visited yesterday. It was where a local vine-tender had suggested but we had chosen to ignore him. Our error. The restaurant was De Novo e D’Antico in the outskirts of Cori village, and a bare 500-metre drive from the Wine Resort. The place was not cheap, nor too expensive but being a typically British pair, by the time we were finishing at 9.30 p.m., local diners were just starting to take their seats. The Italians eat extremely late. To find anything to serve food before 7 p.m. is almost impossible. It is just the way they are.
We are having thoughts as well, as to what we should do after Greece. Plan A was to stay in the country for a week, put up our feet and ponder the meaning of existence. Yet as we travel, so travelling becomes more fun. Somehow, we may have to change to Plan B, C, D, or E and even beyond those. We are enjoying this adventure.
Mind you, if it is a question of survival, I may not be the best person with whom to travel. I am still finding it hard to remember that over here they drive on the wrong side of the road and from time to time have found myself on the left. Mostly I have it correct, but not always, especially when I am just setting off, or am tired. Being exhausted is slowly becoming a way of life as we travel. Living from suitcases, which is what we are doing, is a challenge and not always the recipe for a good night’s sleep.
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Stayed at:
Cincinnato Wine Resort, Via Stoza 3, 04010 Cori LT
Tel: +39 333 589 5118
Email: wineresort@cincinnato.it
Dinner at:
De Novo e D’Antico, Via Santa Margherita 1, Cori LT
Tel: +39(0)69678949
Email: info@denovoedantico.it
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